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The most common causes of sunken pavers are poor base preparation and insufficient compaction. The problem could also be how your pavers were installed. If the soil beneath your patio or walkway wasn't compacted, it will pull pavers down as it settles. Additionally, using bare soil instead of making a paver bed with compacted gravel and sand can cause sinking over time. To fix sunken pavers, consider recompacting the base and addressing any drainage or erosion issues in the area.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

If you're designing a new patio in an area with poor drainage, permeable pavers made from porous materials may help prevent water issues. Most permeable pavers feature a gravel-only aggregate base instead of a concrete base to allow water to flow through instead of getting trapped. While beneficial in some cases, permeable pavers come with higher initial costs and greater load-bearing limitations compared to traditional pavers.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.