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Trees that flower in the spring—like dogwood, cherry, magnolia, and pear—should not be pruned during the winter. These spring-flowering plants grow buds on old growth, so you’ll actually remove what would’ve been gorgeous flowering foliage. Instead, wait to prune until right after they bloom, when the flowers fade.

On grafted trees, tree suckers will grow from the root stock, not the branches grafted onto it. Therefore, the leaves and characteristics of the suckers aren’t the same as the tree because they are different varieties. Root stock has more hardiness, strength, or drought tolerance than its grafted limbs, so if the suckers are from fruit or flowers, it might be different than the main part of your tree.

The best way to protect tree roots is to avoid the roots entirely by excavating outside the root radius of the tree. For nearby projects, it’s a good idea to construct a temporary retaining wall. But that’s not always possible, depending on the project and the root system. In these cases, consider using alternative equipment like an auger to tunnel under the ground.

Remember, tree roots can damage nearby cement foundations as they grow. If a tree is close enough to interfere with large excavations, it may be better to remove the tree than risk future problems.

Most plum trees are pruned into a vase or open wine glass shape. They’ll have a shorter central leader (the trunk) that supports three to four main branches. Of course, this isn't always the case. If you have a European plum tree, you can grow it in a pyramid shape. Let the central leader extend the length of the tree and prune smaller branches to create the pyramid.