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Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

While water-related pressure caused by poor drainage is one common cause of paver cracking, other factors can include ground movement beneath pavers, heavy loads and wear and tear over the pavers, and climates with constant freeze-thaw cycles. In general, pavers should be resealed every three to five years to prevent cracking.

The dimensions of a driveway apron vary based on local building codes, the width of your driveway, and the distance between the driveway and the road. On average, aprons range from 12 to 24 feet wide and 8 to 18 feet long. Typically, the end of the apron connected to the driveway matches its width—such as 10 to 12 feet for a single-car driveway—while the end at the street flares out to allow cars to turn in and out more easily. In some areas, you may not be responsible for the portion of the apron that extends beyond the sidewalk, but this depends on local laws.