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You’ll first need to install a base underneath your pavers for extra stability and drainage. Otherwise, the pavers can sink into the ground, and you’ll have to reinstall them. Use a base gravel layer of 4 to 6 inches for walkways and 10 to 12 inches for driveways. Compact your gravel layer every 2 to 4 inches so it’s nice and solid. After you install your gravel base, apply a 1-inch layer of sand on top.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.

Asphalt dries and cures best between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This range allows moisture to evaporate quickly without causing the asphalt to cool too fast, which can negatively affect the drying process. However, keep in mind that other weather conditions can also affect curing and drying times, such as precipitation and humidity.