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Late winter is ideal, but if you’re pruning apple trees in the spring, prune them as early as possible in the season. You want to ensure your tree is just creeping out of dormancy and hasn’t started pushing out new growth. If you prune your tree too late into spring, you generally won’t see results until the following year.

That said, there’s no pruning season for unhealthy growth. Remove dead, dying, or diseased branches as soon as you notice them, regardless of the time of year.

There are several signs that may indicate a tree needs to be cut down. These include visible damage to the trunk or branches, a hollow trunk, extensive storm damage, or a significant lean to one side. Other warning signs are pest infestations or the tree growing too close to a house, power lines, or other structures. It is best to hire a professional arborist to inspect the tree, as they can determine if it can be saved or if removal is necessary.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.