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Tree Service questions, answered by experts

Early signs that a tree is struggling include premature leaf shedding and lesions or other strange markings. Peeling bark, dead or rotten branches on the ground, and a conspicuous lack of leaves can all be signs that a tree has started to die. By the time a tree starts leaning, it’s usually too far gone to save.

You can use the formula mentioned earlier to calculate the depth of tree roots. Each inch of width of a tree trunk translates to six inches of depth within the root system. Large trees extend anywhere from 2 to 6 feet into the ground, with some magnificent specimens going even deeper.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.

Stay inside or well away until the storm passes. Don’t go outside to inspect the tree until the weather clears, especially if the tree is on a hill or isolated in a field. Lightning often strikes the same easily-accessed places multiple times, and you could be a new target. If a lightning strike causes a noticeable fire, alert emergency services. When the storm is over, take a closer look to gauge the damage done.

It can be bad to leave a dead stump in the ground. A stump becomes a hefty piece of dead wood in time and eventually (especially with the help of rain) starts to rot. That makes it a locus point for diseases and pesky insects, as well as a bit of an eyesore. It’s best to remove a tree stump completely before it starts to decay, especially before it starts to fall apart. If the tree was removed because of disease, it’s even more important to fully remove the stump if possible.

The Coleridge, NE homeowners’ guide to tree services

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