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Chip seal layers gravel and a liquid bitumen one at a time on-site, while asphalt directly pours a pre-combined mixture. Asphalt must be sealed, but it will last up to four times as long as chip seal driveways. Aesthetically, chip seal has a natural, rustic look compared to the traditional asphalt slab.

Yes, you should lightly wet the sand with a hose before laying the pavers on top. This activates the bonding agents in the sand, ensuring that your pavers don’t shift around during the installation process. However, you should make sure that the sand is not soaked; overwatering can cause the sand and pavers to not set properly.

The most common causes of sunken pavers are poor base preparation and insufficient compaction. The problem could also be how your pavers were installed. If the soil beneath your patio or walkway wasn't compacted, it will pull pavers down as it settles. Additionally, using bare soil instead of making a paver bed with compacted gravel and sand can cause sinking over time. To fix sunken pavers, consider recompacting the base and addressing any drainage or erosion issues in the area.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.