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Whether you decide to DIY paver installation or want to hire a pro, it’s smart to understand the process. First, you’ll need to prepare the area by clearing away grass and dirt. Next, you’ll add the paver base of gravel and sand before laying the pavers on top. You may need to cut pavers to fit your space or the landscaping design and add edging stones.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.

Driveways should be sloped with a minimum 2% slope—anything lower will cause precipitation and runoff to collect. A 2% slope is the equivalent of a 2-foot rise over 100 feet. One quick way to check the integrity of your driveway’s slope: no more than four inches of water should collect on the surface longer than 15 minutes after rain.