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You do not need to drywall over most types of garage insulation. However, doing so can increase noise reduction, make the space more attractive, and keep children and pets from touching harmful fiberglass insulation. If you’re using cellulose or some other type of blown-in insulation (fiberglass and mineral wool are common), you will need drywall to contain the insulation material.

There are several benefits to wet-sanding drywall, but the main perk is that it produces far less dust than dry-sanding. As a result, wet-sanding poses fewer health risks and makes less of a mess in your home. Plus, damp sponges are less abrasive than sandpaper, so there’s a smaller chance of scratching or damaging the drywall paper. Wet-sanding also creates a smoother finish than dry-sanding.

Beadboard is a decorative element and lacks the structural integrity of drywall. It cannot hold much weight and is not meant to be used as an insulator or moisture barrier, like drywall is. In almost all cases, beadboard is placed over an existing wall surface which, in modern days, is usually drywall, but decades ago could have been wood paneling.

There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.