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Heat can help plaster dry faster, but it's very easy to get too much of a good thing. When exposed to high heat during the curing process, plaster can dry out too quickly, leading to cracks and affecting the material's integrity. The recommended drying temperature should be listed on the plaster's packaging. If possible, set the thermostat in the room to that temperature, but not any higher.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

It is possible to apply plaster on the interior or exterior of your home, but we don’t recommend it. Plaster is easy to apply in theory, but in reality, it can be a challenging material to work with, and it’s difficult to get the finished product to look clean, even, and smooth. Many DIYers end up calling in a professional afterward to touch up the area or even redo it entirely because of mistakes they made in the process. Hiring a plaster pro will cost more, but it’s usually the best option to achieve high-quality results.

You can put certain types of plaster over other types, but doing so isn't always the best idea. For example, putting a coat of gypsum over lime plaster is possible, but doing so will limit the lime plaster's breathability and potentially affect its performance.

Since cement plaster tends to leave a textured surface, no matter how much you smooth it, some people prefer to use gypsum plaster as a topcoat over cement plaster, creating a smoother surface.