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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

Typically, a fence requires one to two coats of stain. The exact number can vary depending on the porosity of the wood. For specific guidance, it's best to check the manufacturer's instructions. After applying the first coat and letting it dry completely, you can assess the finish. If it appears patchy, uneven, or you want a more saturated color, a second coat is recommended. An extra coat can also help cover lap marks.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

If your cedar fence is new, don’t delay. Unlike treated pine, you don’t need to wait months for the wood to dry out for it to accept stain. With cedar, the sooner, the better. Seal cedar within two weeks of installation to prevent the sun from fading its red color.

Stains penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry, so you want to avoid moisture. If the wood is wet upon application, or if it rains before the stain dries, the water will soak into the wood and displace the staining solution. This leads to a flaky and blotchy look, which is the opposite of a sumptuous even coat. Once the stain has fully cured, after about 3 days, rain shouldn’t cause you any problems.

If you want to achieve a deeper, darker stain color, wait 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off. However, wipe it off faster for a lighter tone. When wiping off the stain during this part of the process, be sure to work in the direction of the wood’s grain for best results.

The Taos, NM homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.