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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

To prevent a fence from becoming dirty, hose it down weekly and after every time you mow the lawn. This will prevent algae from being able to feed on grass clippings. You should also wash your fence once per season and trim plants so they don’t touch it. As a precautionary measure, you can treat your fence with a coating of a mold prevention product.

A dry lawn is easier to edge than a wet one. When your ground is wet, your blades will likely clump together, making a seemingly even cut while wet, but an uneven disaster when dried. Also, a wet lawn can impact your blade's performance and cause mud to kick up, resulting in a messy finish.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

If your cedar fence is new, don’t delay. Unlike treated pine, you don’t need to wait months for the wood to dry out for it to accept stain. With cedar, the sooner, the better. Seal cedar within two weeks of installation to prevent the sun from fading its red color.

The Ojo Caliente, NM homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.