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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

If you don’t treat a cedar fence, it will turn from reddish brown to gray over time. You can keep the cedar from graying and retain its attractive, deep red color by sealing your cedar fence with a stain that keeps the wood’s oils in and serves as a barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Opt for an interior wood stain that is rated for your type of wood. Consider your personal style preferences as well as the overall use of the room when choosing a color. Remember, the color you see at the store may look different on your actual floors once applied. This is why if you have the chance, it’s helpful to test a few options on a scrap piece of wood in the room first. Once you narrow it down, you can test a small patch on an inconspicuous area in the room to see it on the actual floors.