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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

If your cedar fence is new, don’t delay. Unlike treated pine, you don’t need to wait months for the wood to dry out for it to accept stain. With cedar, the sooner, the better. Seal cedar within two weeks of installation to prevent the sun from fading its red color.

Both a roller and a brush are effective methods for painting a chain link fence. A roller will make the job easier by ensuring symmetrical strokes and reaching the backside of the fence as well, which cuts down on paint time. However, a brush is often necessary for painting the base of the fence and near the posts due to its ease of reaching smaller spaces.

To prevent a fence from becoming dirty, hose it down weekly and after every time you mow the lawn. This will prevent algae from being able to feed on grass clippings. You should also wash your fence once per season and trim plants so they don’t touch it. As a precautionary measure, you can treat your fence with a coating of a mold prevention product.

The El Rito, NM homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.