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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

If you don’t treat a cedar fence, it will turn from reddish brown to gray over time. You can keep the cedar from graying and retain its attractive, deep red color by sealing your cedar fence with a stain that keeps the wood’s oils in and serves as a barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

You should stain both sides of your fence to get the full benefits. Fences often fall along property lines, so you may want to save a buck by leaving your neighbor’s side in the dust. If you do that, all you get is a slightly better view. Moisture and UV rays can still sneak in through the side that’s unpainted or worn down and damage your fence. Rot and rust will spread, even if you can’t see it from your side of the lawn.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Moisture and rot are the largest threat to wooden fences. Stain can help your wood fence last 15 to 20 years, but only if you choose a stain with waterproofing qualities or add a sealant. Oil-based stains create a thicker moisture barrier than water-based stains, though both are mold and mildew resistant. You’ll generally need to re-stain your fence every one to eight years to get full protection.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

The Santa Fe, NM homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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