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A water pressure booster doesn't require special maintenance. Like any house system, inspections should be a regular part of your annual schedule. Check for leaks, faulty valves, pressure loss, and mineral build-up. Pressure loss could be a result of mineral build-up, and you can descale the system with a vinegar and water solution.

There are a couple of similar alternatives you may consider for a sewage ejector pump, including a grinder pump or a submersible sump pump. Submersible sump pumps protect your home from flooding from outside water, though, rather than handling wastewater from inside. A grinder pump macerates, or shreds, solid waste before pumping it onward to the sewer line.

A sewage ejector pump is necessary if you have any plumbing fixtures, such as a bathroom, laundry room, or sink, located below the level of your home's main sewer line. Standard plumbing relies on gravity to drain wastewater and solid waste into the municipal sewer system or a septic tank. For fixtures below this level, like those in a basement, gravity cannot move the waste upward. The ejector pump provides the force needed to pump the sewage up to the main line. Without one, wastewater from below-ground fixtures would back up, potentially causing a sewage overflow and flooding. If all of your plumbing is on the main floor or higher, gravity is sufficient and an ejector pump is not needed.

To test for toilet leaks, use water coloring in the water tank and see if the water slips into the bowl from the tank. This test will indicate if there’s a problem with the flapper or refill tube. You can also put water coloring in the bowl of the toilet to see if there is a leak there. If there is, you should see the colored water on the outside of the toilet bowl or on the floor.