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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Yes, you can speed up the time it takes for plaster to dry, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid issues like cracking or crumbling. Proper ventilation is key; open a window or use a fan to circulate air in the room. Heat can also accelerate drying, but be cautious, as too much heat can cause the plaster to dry too quickly and crack. Check the plaster's packaging for the recommended drying temperature and set the room's thermostat accordingly. While managing humidity is important, avoid using a dehumidifier, which can remove moisture too aggressively and result in crumbly plaster.

The short answer is yes, a sagging plaster ceiling is dangerous. Sagging plaster on a wall is something you should fix immediately, but it isn’t a major concern. If the same type of sagging occurs on a ceiling, however, you could be in danger of your ceiling falling in large chunks. When plaster sags, it loses its strength and ability to hold itself up. The bonds that hold it together are strong, though, so if a sagging area falls, it will take large pieces down with it.

Installing or repairing plaster on ceilings differs slightly from performing the same motions on a wall. You’ll apply slightly less plaster to lower the overall weight of the ceiling. Wall texturing is common, whereas most ceilings are smooth plaster. Tough coat plaster is strong, meaning you can use less while retaining a solid surface.