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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

You can use latex or acrylic paint outdoors. Although acrylic paint tends to last longer outside, it also costs more, so if you’re painting the outside of your house, for instance, latex paint is often a go-to option. However, acrylic will be your best choice if you want to spend some extra money for added durability.

If possible, it is beneficial to paint both sides of your fence to protect the fence more completely from the elements. Painting both sides of your fence will create a more consistent appearance as well. However, the time and cost involved in painting both sides of the fence may cause people to paint only the side they see.

Exterior paints contain more volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, making them dangerous when used indoors. Without the free ventilation of the great outdoors, it can take longer for the fumes to dissipate than interior paint. While you may notice the smell lessening more quickly, you should be wary of paint fumes inside for 48 to 72 hours after it dries.

The Avery, CA homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.