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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

DIY is possible with proper tools and knowledge, but professionals can ensure even application and high-quality results, saving time and hassle.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Maintain your wattle fence by inspecting it at least twice per year for loose weaving and degrading branches. Replace any seriously degraded sections, ensure water drains properly around the posts, and trim any sprouting branches if you used green wood. If you notice the weave loosening, you can often tighten it by gently pushing down on the top branches. You can also apply a natural wood preservative every two to three years to extend the fence's lifespan.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

The Jackson, CA homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.