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The white stains you see on your bricks are likely efflorescence, which is salt and lime buildup. To remove efflorescence stains, simply brush them away with a stiff brush. For larger, more stubborn stains, scrub the stains with a water-detergent solution.

Handbuilt masonry fireplaces are likely what comes to mind when we think about curling up by the fire at the end of the day. But bricks in the firebox and chimney tend to be heavy, which is not ideal for homes with weak or damaged foundations.

Prefabricated fireboxes come with a full flue and chimney system, significantly reducing the price and installation time. However, if you need to replace the panels down the line, you are locked into the same model or something very similar.

Drilling into brick or mortar requires the use of a masonry drill bit. Masonry drill bits appear similar to standard drill bits except for the leading tip of the bit. The tip has a bulky carbide arrow-shaped end slightly larger than the rest of the bit shaft. Standard or high-speed drill bits designed for making holes in wood or metal don’t have the ruggedness or design shape you need to drill into brick. They may not go through the brick at all, and if they do, they’re more likely to overheat, crack, or dull before you finish drilling.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.