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Wet-sanding and dry-sanding each have pros and cons. Dry-sanding is less messy, so it’s a good option if you’re trying to minimize dust (for example, if you’re sanding an occupied home or working with particularly dry or dusty drywall mud). However, dry-sanding is quicker because you don’t have to keep rinsing a sponge or wait for it to dry before painting.

Staining pressure-treated wood is a recommended practice. While inherently resilient, it's not impervious to moisture and UV exposure. Staining treated wood is feasible and recommended for enhanced protection and longevity. Applying stain and sealant safeguards against degradation, prolonging its life span. These measures shield the wood from environmental threats while augmenting its aesthetic appeal, ensuring your investment endures the test of time.

Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Whether you can paint over your existing paint depends on what’s on there. Most of the time, you’ll want to sand down or scrape off the paint that’s currently coating your surface. Epoxy paint, for example, won’t let new paint stick to the surface. Latex paint is more forgiving and will accept a new coat, but a primer is recommended if you’re switching colors.