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You can drywall over plaster, but there are some things to consider. First, installing drywall over plaster will increase the wall’s thickness. This could create challenges for window and door frames that no longer fit the wall’s thickness. You may also have to adjust power outlets so they are accessible. When done right, drywall can create a smooth, flat appearance, but it’s best when handled by professionals.

No, rough-in plumbing is one of the last steps before your drywall goes up. This is because essential things like pipe installation require space before other elements go up. After the rough-in plumbing is complete, your inspector will also come to conduct an examination and tell you if your plumbing is approved and satisfies your building permit.

If you plan on heating your garage, you must install a vapor barrier when drywalling the garage. A vapor barrier protects your garage from frost and mold that can occur through condensation. If your garage is unheated, you don't need to install a vapor barrier. The only exception is if you regularly crank the heat in your car before getting in it. In this case, you may still want to install a vapor barrier, as your car can heat your garage.

Drywall installation is considerably faster and more affordable than plastering. Because plastering involves applying a wet material, it’s more time-consuming, takes longer to dry, and is more prone to cracking. It doesn’t tend to be as insulative either. If you need resurfacing work done on the walls, it's not unusual for the cost of plastering to hit $10 per square foot, which is much higher than the drywall installation costs of $1.50 to $3 per square foot.

If you’re looking for good soundproofing and want a high-end look in a historic home, though, plastering may be the better option.