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Large, established tree branches won’t grow roots, but if you find a young tree branch that’s less than about a year old, you’ve got a shot. Put it in water or soil as soon as possible for best results. You’ll know the branch is viable if it’s about the thickness of a pencil and has some leaves or needles.

Carefully pruning small roots no thicker than three inches in diameter won’t harm the tree. However, cutting larger roots may impact the tree's stability and nutrient absorption. It's advisable to consult an arborist or tree care professional to evaluate the root's size, the tree's health, and the potential impact of cutting. Proper tree pruning techniques and timing can minimize damage, but larger root removal may necessitate expert guidance to avoid compromising the tree's overall health and stability.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

As a general rule, the protected area should be about 1½ times as wide as the canopy of the tree’s leaves. This digging measurement can vary by tree species and the age of the tree. Of course, that can be a lot of fencing for larger trees, which is why our first step is about making difficult decisions on which trees to save.