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The best tools for tree removal include a chainsaw for large trees, an ax for notching and cutting down small trees, and a wedge to help control the direction a tree falls in. A hatchet can be useful for very small trees, but won’t be effective for medium to large trees. 

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.

It will take you anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours per tree stump to grind and remove the stump from the ground. The larger the size, the longer it will take to remove the stump. Also, keep in mind that rocky soil may require local excavation services to loosen up large boulders before you can begin to remove the tree stump.