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Water-damaged drywall should almost always be replaced. Not only does it look bad, it’s a breeding ground for toxic mold. Even if you think the area is dry and there’s no active leak, the only way to be sure is to cut out the damaged area and see for yourself.

It is more difficult to drywall a ceiling than it is to drywall a wall, but not so hard that DIYers can’t tackle it. One of the main issues with hanging drywall on your ceiling is getting it into place. Drywall isn’t light so, if you are hanging full drywall panels, you will need at least two (it’s better with more) people to hold the panel while you drill it into the ceiling as a single piece can weigh between 40 and 60 pounds and will need to be held in place for up to 10 minutes.

You can put drywall mud over paint to even out the surface or entirely resurface it. Sand the surface with 280-grit sandpaper, vacuum the debris and dust with a shop vac, and clean it with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry. Apply drywall primer, especially if you’re skim-coating an entire wall. Apply the right type of drywall mud over the surface and smooth it with a trowel. Allow the layer to cure fully, then sand it before applying another layer or painting it.

The two most common drywall thicknesses for ceilings are 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch. For most standard residential applications, 1/2-inch drywall is sufficient and widely used. It provides adequate support and is lighter and easier to handle during installation compared to thicker sheets. However, 5/8-inch drywall is often used for specific cases where additional benefits are needed. It is heavier but provides superior sound dampening and fire resistance. You should consider using 5/8-inch drywall for ceilings in commercial buildings, between a garage and a living space, or above a finished basement to meet building codes or for enhanced soundproofing.