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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Choose a drill bit that is the size of the screws of the anchors you will use. You aren’t drilling through metal or concrete—hopefully—so any standard twist, wooden or all-purpose drill bit will work fine. It’s also important to have a screwdriver capable of drilling through the drywall and into the stud. The good news is most available drills, even the older ones, can do this with no issue.

The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.

Which style of corner bead you choose—whether metal or paper-faced—depends on your preference and if you’re comfortable using metal-cutting tools and a hammer. Metal bead offers superior strength and durability but its installation is slightly more involved. We’d say for most cases, it’s better to use metal bead but if you’re not comfortable working with metal, paper-faced bead will work just fine.