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You can put drywall mud over paint to even out the surface or entirely resurface it. Sand the surface with 280-grit sandpaper, vacuum the debris and dust with a shop vac, and clean it with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry. Apply drywall primer, especially if you’re skim-coating an entire wall. Apply the right type of drywall mud over the surface and smooth it with a trowel. Allow the layer to cure fully, then sand it before applying another layer or painting it.

All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

This depends on how much plaster is applied and in how many layers, but a decent estimate is around 150 square feet. If you are applying only two coats on a small wall, there is a chance you may only need one or two gallons for the entire project. If you are plastering a large living room wall with high ceilings, using one of the more involved techniques–like Scagliola–that requires several coats, expect the project materials costs to add up quickly. 

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.