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Staining a deck with a rag is typically a better option than using a brush, as it helps the stain penetrate deeper into the wood. However, both brushes and rags are best reserved for detailed work because using these tools on an entire deck can require tediously crawling around on your hands and knees. A pad applicator, sprayer, or roller are preferred alternatives to applying stain over the majority of a deck. Use a rag for railings and other detailed work, and let the wood soak up as much of the stain as possible before wiping away drips or pools.

The number of coats you need to apply when whitewashing a surface depends on how opaque you want the final product to be. If you're going for a transparent, barely there look, a single coat or two may suffice. For fuller coverage, you'll want to use multiple coats. Another option is to use a less diluted paint to get a thicker coverage. 

Yes, you can and should paint or stain pressure-treated wood, as this helps prevent the surface from cracking. However, it is crucial to wait for the wood to dry out completely from the chemical treatment process before applying a finish. If the wood is still wet, the paint will not adhere properly. The drying time can range from weeks to six months. To test if the wood is ready, drip some water onto a board. If the water is absorbed, the wood is dry enough for painting or staining. If the water beads up on the surface, it needs more time to dry. You can build with the wood while it's still wet, but you must wait for it to dry before painting.

Limewash and whitewash do not harm surfaces if you apply them correctly. Use on non-suitable surfaces can cause issues. For instance, applying limewash or whitewash to surfaces with existing sealants or incompatible materials may lead to poor adhesion or flaking. Also, harsh cleaning agents on limewashed or whitewashed surfaces can damage the finish. Proper preparation, application, and maintenance ensure that limewash and whitewash do not harm surfaces.