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Concrete septic tank risers are heavier and more durable than plastic or fiberglass ones, making them suitable for long-term use. Installing a concrete riser differs from installing plastic or fiberglass risers primarily in the materials and methods used. The process involves cutting the concrete risers to the required length and then stacking them, using concrete sealant or adhesive between sections for secure attachment. Due to their weight, extra care is necessary during leveling and the attachment of sections. Concrete sealant or adhesive may also require a curing before the riser is ready for use.

There are many reasons you may want to extend the depth of an existing well or drill a new, deeper well on your property. A deeper well can tap cleaner water sources—shallow water may contain more contaminants. With a deeper well, you’ll also have an easier time reaching the water table depth (the level at which underground water is found) and can get past tricky soil conditions. 

Plus, if your local building code requires a minimum well depth for safety and environmental standards, you’ll meet the code by digging a deeper well in the first place.

When your septic system is failing, you’ll probably smell it. Common signs of a septic system failure include sewage odors in the home or around the yard, flooding in the yard above the septic tank or in the leach field, and wastewater or even raw sewage backing up into your home’s drains.

Normally, when your well pump turns on or off, you’ll hear a small click. This isn’t anything to worry about, but it can be a problem if it’s clicking continuously. This can indicate that the well pump is short cycling—the pump continuously turns on and off.

This can wear out the motor and provide uneven water flow. If this happens, you may need to get it looked at by a well pump professional to see if you need to repair the switch or pump.