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You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.

You can put drywall mud over paint to even out the surface or entirely resurface it. Sand the surface with 280-grit sandpaper, vacuum the debris and dust with a shop vac, and clean it with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry. Apply drywall primer, especially if you’re skim-coating an entire wall. Apply the right type of drywall mud over the surface and smooth it with a trowel. Allow the layer to cure fully, then sand it before applying another layer or painting it.

Yes, even if you’re being careful, removing tile can damage your drywall to some degree. However, you can minimize the damage done to it by eliminating a majority of the grout and taking your time prying each tile off. Also, it's worth noting that you might have more drywall damages to deal with if your tile is set into the mortar.

Yes, you can speed up the time it takes for plaster to dry, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid issues like cracking or crumbling. Proper ventilation is key; open a window or use a fan to circulate air in the room. Heat can also accelerate drying, but be cautious, as too much heat can cause the plaster to dry too quickly and crack. Check the plaster's packaging for the recommended drying temperature and set the room's thermostat accordingly. While managing humidity is important, avoid using a dehumidifier, which can remove moisture too aggressively and result in crumbly plaster.