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Several signs can indicate a faulty well pump pressure switch. These include your pump running continuously, the pump not turning on at all, or a sudden and complete loss of water. Other symptoms are weak water pressure or an erratic, unpredictable water flow from your fixtures. If you notice these issues, the pressure switch may be the cause. Testing the switch can help diagnose the problem. A faulty switch will likely need to be repaired or replaced. If the issue is more complex, it's best to consult a professional well technician to ensure your water supply is restored correctly.

Septic tanks can clog if they aren’t pumped every few years since solid waste accumulates inside of them. Your tank might also clog if you have a habit of flushing anything other than human waste or toilet paper. Items like diapers, baby wipes, paper towels, cat litter, and personal hygiene products should never go down your pipes.

Your septic tank may be full or clogged if you notice household drains that are backed up, draining slowly, or gurgling; greener, lusher grass around the septic system; pooling water in your yard; or smelling sewage odors outdoors. You can contact a local septic tank pro to inspect your septic system and pump your tank.

The pressure in a well pressure tank should be set 2 to 3 PSI below the pump's cut-on pressure. The cut-on pressure is the lower number in the pressure setting (e.g., the '30' in 30/50 PSI) and is the point at which the pump starts. The cut-out pressure is the higher number, where the pump stops.

For example:

• If your pressure switch is set to 30/50 PSI, the tank pressure should be 27-28 PSI.

• If your pressure switch is set to 40/60 PSI, the tank pressure should be 38 PSI.

Common pressure settings for household applications include 20/40, 30/50, and 40/60 PSI. The difference between the cut-on and cut-out pressure is typically 20 PSI.