Get matched with top drywall pros in Kittitas, WA

The age of your home can clue you in to whether you have plaster or drywall ceilings. Homes built after the ‘70s are more likely to have drywall ceilings and walls, while older homes have plaster. You can also do the pushpin test: A pushpin will go into drywall, whereas it’s much harder to push one into a plaster wall. If you’re still unsure, ask a drywall professional to let you know which type of ceilings and walls you have.

Yes, any parts of drywall that are wet or overly moist will need to be replaced. Drywall is intended to be dry (it’s in the name, after all.), as excess moisture can lead to mold and mildew and eventually corrode your home’s foundational building pieces. Do regular inspections in your home to make sure all your plumbing is intact and in good condition—this will go a long way toward preventing leaks.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.