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There are a few ways to figure out if your walls are plaster or drywall, but the pushpin method is probably the easiest option. To try it, choose a part of your wall where you can insert a pushpin or thumbtack without leaving an obvious mark. If it goes in easily, you have drywall. But if the wall is tough to penetrate, that’s plaster.

You can paint over plaster, but repair any damage to the plaster first, or the paint will crack and bubble. You should also prepare the surface of the plaster to accept paint, which gives your paint job the best chance of looking good and lasting a long time. Before applying the color you want, apply a coat or two of primer. Additionally, use latex paint, and choose a latex paint with a satin finish for areas with dampness, like bathrooms.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Drywall can be installed directly on ceiling joists. In fact, this method is common in many construction projects. Drywall sheets are attached to the joists using screws, ensuring a secure and stable installation. Before attaching the drywall, it's important to mark the joist locations on the ceiling, allowing for accurate screw placement. Proper spacing between screws and careful taping and mudding of joints are crucial to creating a smooth and flawless ceiling surface. If the joists are in good condition and level, installing drywall directly on them is a practical and efficient approach.