After a big storm, you may not be sure if a tree was struck or not. Look for the telltale long scars, like strips or gouges in the bark of the tree, running in sometimes jagged lines down the length of the trunk. These scars will often show vulnerable living wood inside the tree. It’s also common to see scorched or wilted leaves on the side or top of the tree where lightning struck.

Early signs that a tree is struggling include premature leaf shedding and lesions or other strange markings. Peeling bark, dead or rotten branches on the ground, and a conspicuous lack of leaves can all be signs that a tree has started to die. By the time a tree starts leaning, it’s usually too far gone to save.

Completely topping a plum tree is a risky business. Cut too much, and you’ll kill your tree. That said, you do need to trim the top of your tree to encourage bushy growth, maintain your tree’s vase shape, and limit size. 

A plum tree's central leader (or trunk) should never extend more than 3 feet above the highest branch. When you first plant your tree, cut the central leader so it’s 2 to 3 feet tall. As it grows, cut it back 12 to 20 inches until it reaches its desired height. Never prune more than one-third of the new growth.

It can take anywhere from one month to a couple of years for tree roots to grow back in sewer lines. Tree roots can cause extreme havoc on your sewer lines, potentially cracking them and causing untreated wastewater to make its way into the groundwater. Have a landscaping pro remove trees and roots before installing your system, or call a pro to do it retroactively as soon as you can.