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If you’ve accessed the bolts and nuts that hold your toilet seat in place and can’t unscrew them, it’s possible that they were overtightened or that the material corroded over time, making it impossible to unscrew. If that’s the case, you can either call in a plumber for help, or you can DIY a solution if you’re careful. Lay down masking tape around the mounting bracket and then use the tape as a surface to lay a hack saw blade. Move slowly to cut through the bracket and bolt, being careful not to damage the porcelain in the process.

This rumbling noise after flushing may sound like a hammer or knocking inside the walls. When you flush, it opens a valve so additional water can come in. However, if the valve malfunctions, then this rush of water has nowhere to go, which makes all the excess water hit your pipes and create a loud hammering sound.

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

You can tell if your toilet fill valve is full by removing the lid and taking a look. When you flush the toilet, the float is at the bottom of the tank, the water empties, and the fill valve opens. The float rises to the top as the tank fills again with water. When the float rises to the right level, the fill valve closes; if the valve is too high, your toilet may only partially flush, requiring you to adjust the float.