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The biggest sign that your flange leaks is if you notice water at the base of the toilet. The cause is likely due to a poor flange installation, so you might have issues with loose bolts, an uneven flange, or a cracked plastic flange. Add a deteriorating wax seal to this, and you have a recipe for disaster. The best solution is to shut off the water valve, replace the toilet flange, and seal it with a new wax ring.

If you notice water coming out of the bottom of your tank or the flush handle, you obviously have a leaking tank. Water on the side of the tank can indicate cracks. Other signs include the toilet running and flushing without anyone touching the handle, needing to jiggle the handle to make the water stop after flushing, or needing to hold the handle down to empty the water tank.

Recaulk your toilet at least every five years. If you feel like your toilet is getting wobbly before that, it still might be time for a new caulking. Never directly place new caulk over existing caulk because that doesn’t produce lasting results. Also, caulking over existing moldy caulk does not kill out the mold by suffocating it, so if you have mold, be sure to get rid of it before recaulking.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.