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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

The lifespan of crawl space insulation depends on how well you maintain your insulation and the type of insulation. Fiberglass will need replacing every 15 to 20 years on average if you don't have a vapor barrier in place. If you do have vapor barriers in place, then your insulation could last much longer. Spray foam insulation can last anywhere from 80 to 100 years. 

A plastic vapor barrier should completely cover your basement to prevent water from penetrating through the walls. This typically goes before installing insulation to prevent moisture from building up and becoming trapped on the inside of your insulation, where it can collect and lead to mold damage. Installing insulation after the vapor barrier allows for any moisture to exit the walls for better ventilation.