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Fan power is measured by CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For every 1,000 feet of square footage in your attic, you need a minimum of 700 CFM. Steeper roofs may need larger fans or about 840 CFM.  You can figure the size of attic fan you need by multiplying the square footage of your attic floor by 0.7. (multiply by 1.2 for a steep roof and 1.15 for a dark roof). That number is the CFM required for your fan to run efficiently.

Some disadvantages of a blower cooler—a type of cooling device sometimes known as a swamp cooler—are its increased energy demand and its higher noise level. Blowers require more energy to run because they push air out at a higher pressure. This also means a blower cooler can be louder than a fan. Blower coolers are also not recommended for humid areas because humidity limits their cooling potential.

The direction you want your ceiling fan to move in depends on the season you’re in. During summer, you want it to move counterclockwise to produce a cooling downdraft. During winter, you want it to move clockwise to circulate warm air throughout the room.

Most duct booster fans are not designed to run continuously, though some models can be programmed for constant operation. Typically, they are controlled by the user via a switch, controls on the unit itself, or by being wired to the HVAC system's thermostat. Wiring the fan to a thermostat allows it to run automatically only when heating or cooling is active, which saves energy and is an effective way to activate the fan only when needed to address issues like uneven room temperatures.