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It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

We recommend removing the stump, and grinding is a popular way to do it. You can also dig out small stumps or stumps that have fully decayed instead of grinding them. However, don’t try using acids or fire for killing a tree stump, which is a fire hazard and illegal in many areas.

Leaving the stump alone invites eventual problems, including attracting termites, mold, and fungi.

Rock salt or Epsom salt can damage and kill tree roots over several weeks and can even assist in removing the tree's stump. However, you need to drill holes or cut into the stump and surface tree roots to inject them properly with the salt. Repeat the process every two weeks until the roots visibly rot away.

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.