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It depends on the type of surface. For instance, if you’re trying to get rid of hard water deposits on glass, you can spray vinegar onto the surface and wipe it off with a soft cloth or non-abrasive sponge. However, if the deposits are on granite or natural stone, it’s better to use baking soda and water rather than vinegar or other acidic cleaners.

No. You should never directly drain a water softener into a sewer cleanout. This practice is illegal in many areas because it could allow raw sewage to get into your drinking water and make you seriously ill. Many places have codes requiring a specific seal, pipe, and a large air gap between a water softener and a sewage cleanout. Check out Florida's Plumbing Building Code as an example of what these restrictions might look like.

While it depends on how complicated the unit and installation is, it takes two to four hours to install a water softener unit, on average. It might take longer if pipes need to be replaced. You should make sure the installation area is clear of any objects that might get in the way before you begin.

It’s not a good idea to oversize your water softener. Doing so will mean the tank doesn’t get full, which can lead to channeling. This leads to a large portion of the resin beads not being utilized and the beads at the bottom of the tank being overused. Over time, this will reduce the efficiency of your system, not to mention that the upfront cost of an oversized softener is unnecessarily high. If you have a timed regeneration cycle rather than a demand-based one, you’ll also spend far more on replacing salt than you need to.