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Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.

You can never truly stop a maple tree from growing taller, but you can rein in its growth by pruning. Proper pruning helps maintain a safe size for your tree without causing permanent damage. It’s important to start pruning a tree while it’s young, long before it becomes a problem. Otherwise, you may be left with too many hazardous branches to remove at once.

Whether you grind or dig up and remove your tree stump depends on your landscaping goals. Using a stump grinder leaves the root system in place for it to decompose over time, whereas digging up the tree stump removes the roots and the stump. Overall, stump grinding is a far simpler process since you won’t need to deal with the roots. Stump removal will make your yard look like a demolition site, but you’ll have an easier time replanting in the same place as your former tree.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.