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Most standard residential water heaters, which are typically around 40 gallons and use 240 volts and between 3,500 and 5,500 watts, require a 30-amp, two-pole circuit breaker. For smaller, point-of-use water heaters using 120 volts and between 1,500 and 3,000 watts, a 30-amp breaker is also often adequate. However, some models may have different needs; units that use more watts than average may require a 40-amp breaker, while smaller units might only need a 20-amp breaker. Newer, tankless, or more energy-efficient models can also require a higher amperage. Having the correct breaker size is crucial for safe and efficient operation, so it's best to consult a licensed electrician to determine the specific needs of your water heater.

Daisy-chaining refers to placing multiple GFCI outlets in a row along the same circuit. This won’t do any harm, but it’s of limited usefulness because a properly-placed GFCI can monitor all downstream outlets on its own. Multiple GFCI installations won’t usually increase safety except in special cases.

If you strictly adhere to electrical safety rules, including assuming that a circuit is hot until proven otherwise, and have some knowledge of how an electrical circuit works, you can likely replace a light switch by yourself without too much trouble. However, it's always advisable to call a nearby electrical pro to do the job if you're unsure of any steps necessary to change a light switch. 

That depends on your setup. If a circuit breaker already has GFCI protection, then everything connected to that specific circuit is being monitored. You don’t need additional GFCI outlets on that breaker.

However, if the breaker is not GFCI, then you should have GFCI receptacles for at-risk outlets nearby water sources, because they are not receiving protection. Breakers in a breaker box can vary between GFCI and non-GFCI. Look for GFCI labels on the breaker or try to find the breaker model number to look it up if you aren’t sure.