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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Insulating a detached garage won't reduce your home's heating or cooling bills—and insulating an attached garage will only have a small effect on your home's energy efficiency. However, insulating an attached garage can reduce the transfer of heating and cooling to and from the outdoors, which can reduce the amount of energy your home needs to stay comfortable. Also, having an insulated garage is just more pleasant. Balance the cost of insulating your garage with how you'll use the space to determine if the project is worth it.

Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.

Each of the three types of wool insulation has particular disadvantages. While their R-value is higher, they all cost more than fiberglass versions. Installing mineral wool and sheep wool requires protective gear. Because of its vulnerability to insects, chemicals are used in its production. Hemp wool is more costly to install than other types because additional tools and labor are involved.