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If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

We do not recommend fiberglass insulation for soundproofing purposes, especially if you are working on a room that’s part of your living space. Fiberglass insulation is dangerous, and the installation process is hazardous. It is also harmful to the environment. When there are so many newer, healthier non-fiberglass alternatives in the market, the lower cost of fiberglass insulation simply doesn’t justify the harm and danger it poses.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

The life span of insulation is between 20 and 100 years. At that time, existing insulation can fall victim to gravity, resulting in compression, which reduces its insulating protection or R-value. If you can't simply add more insulation over the existing material, removing the old to increase the effectiveness of the new can reduce your energy bills and make the project worth the time and money investment.