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Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

If you're designing a new patio in an area with poor drainage, permeable pavers made from porous materials may help prevent water issues. Most permeable pavers feature a gravel-only aggregate base instead of a concrete base to allow water to flow through instead of getting trapped. While beneficial in some cases, permeable pavers come with higher initial costs and greater load-bearing limitations compared to traditional pavers.

If your new pavers look dull or unclean, it is likely due to efflorescence, a chalky, white powder that forms when lime in the pavers gets wet. This condition often resolves on its own, as rain will naturally wash it away within about a year. For faster results, you can use a pressure washer to clean the pavers. Alternatively, consider using cleaning products specifically designed to remove efflorescence or applying sulfuric acid crystals.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.