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A post-drywall inspection could uncover many problems that weren’t present during the pre-drywall inspection, including insufficient insulation, missing weather stripping, improperly installed plumbing and lighting fixtures, flooring damage, drywall damage, plumbing leaks, aesthetic issues, and more. Structural problems, which are often expensive to fix and are common reasons to walk away after a home inspection, are easier to see before the drywall goes up, but a post-drywall inspection may highlight minor issues with house settling and foundation problems.

The easiest way to cut holes in drywall for electrical boxes is to use a spiral saw with a drywall router bit. Hang the drywall without cutting out a hole for the box, but make sure you measure and mark where the box is located on the wall. Once you screw in the drywall sheet, drill a small hole into the box void, insert the spiral saw bit, and move it around the edge of the box using the inside wall as a guide. You can also use an oscillating multi-tool with an electrical box cutout for fast, professional results.

There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.

Drywall anchors won’t work on plaster. Instead, they will more than likely cause more damage and pull out the plaster. The best type of anchors to use on plaster walls are the ones that will bite into the surrounding area, such as molly bolts and toggle bolts. Masonry anchors with expanders on the sides also work for lighter pictures.