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You can usually tell if you have plaster or drywall by touch (plaster is harder, colder, and smoother than drywall) or by tapping on it (drywall sounds hollow, plaster does not). If you still cannot tell, peek under an outlet cover and check the cut edges. The rough edges show the composition of the wall. You will see either drywall (two paper sheets sandwiching gypsum material) or only plaster material (no paper sheets).

Yes, you can speed up the time it takes for plaster to dry, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid issues like cracking or crumbling. Proper ventilation is key; open a window or use a fan to circulate air in the room. Heat can also accelerate drying, but be cautious, as too much heat can cause the plaster to dry too quickly and crack. Check the plaster's packaging for the recommended drying temperature and set the room's thermostat accordingly. While managing humidity is important, avoid using a dehumidifier, which can remove moisture too aggressively and result in crumbly plaster.

You do not need to drywall over most types of garage insulation. However, doing so can increase noise reduction, make the space more attractive, and keep children and pets from touching harmful fiberglass insulation. If you’re using cellulose or some other type of blown-in insulation (fiberglass and mineral wool are common), you will need drywall to contain the insulation material.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.