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If you’re handling your tile removal yourself, seal the room using painter’s tape and heavy-duty contractor bags to prevent dust and shards from escaping. Use a claw hammer or a pry bar and a mallet to get behind the tile and pry it away from the floor or wall. Once your tiles are all removed, sweep everything into contractor bags for disposal, being careful not to overfill them. Make sure you wear a dust mask, safety goggles, and work gloves to keep yourself safe from injury while you work.

No, tiling over painted walls or wallpapered surfaces is generally not recommended. Textured surfaces and paints will affect the adhesive, possibly causing tiles to lift or fall off. Painted walls with a semi-gloss or high-gloss finish are particularly difficult for adding tiles. It’s wise to strip the paint first if you install the tiles to drywall, although it’s still best to opt for a cement backer board.

Tile shouldn’t be set tight against the tub. Bathtubs can expand when filled, and they can shift slightly with the weight of occupants. For this reason, it’s important to leave a slight gap between the bathtub and the first row of tile. Aim for a narrow gap of approximately 1/16 of an inch, filled with caulk, to allow for this expansion and movement while still allowing for tile shower waterproofing.

You can attach tiles to a wall using thin-set mortar. You’ll also need a notched trowel to create grooves within the adhesive so it flattens completely when pressed in and securely holds the wall tiles. Finally, you’ll need grout to smooth the gaps between the tiles and, ideally, a grout sealer to prevent mold. While it sounds simple enough, proper planning and execution are crucial, so carefully review the steps in this guide or hire a pro tile installer to complete this project.