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No, thick carpet padding isn’t necessarily better than thinner padding. The appropriate padding thickness will depend on the type of carpet and the amount of foot traffic in the area. 

For example, thick padding works well in low-traffic areas, like bedrooms, where you have soft and plush carpeting. However, thick carpet padding can damage low-pile carpet, which is used in the busiest parts of your home (like hallways and entryways). For that reason, it’s best to use thinner, heavier padding underneath carpet in high-traffic areas.

No, when done correctly, removing the tile shouldn’t damage the subfloor. However, if there was pre-existing damage to the subfloor from standard use or lack of maintenance, the subfloor may need repairs. For example, if the contractors notice mold growth on the subfloor or an uneven surface, you may need more extensive services before installing new tile.

If you DIY tile removal, remove the tiles one step at a time, individually removing the tile, grout, and mortar to prevent unnecessarily damaging the subfloor. Depending on the age of your home, consider having a professional inspect the subfloor to ensure it’s in good enough condition to lay new tile.

Some root cellars are made with concrete, but a dirt floor may be better for your crops' longevity. Dirt can help maintain an appropriate temperature and humidity level, while the concrete might suck up all the moisture. Dirt floors can also bring down the overall cost of your root cellar. But, if you’re going with a dirt floor, make sure you properly insulate between your house and the root cellar.

To prep a floor for painting, start by sweeping and cleaning any loose debris that could puncture the protective material. Take out as much furniture as possible. Then lay plastic, canvas, rosin paper, or masonite sheets across the room, securing them at the edges with masking tape. Plan your painting so that you minimize the chances you’ll step in and track any splatters.