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Before installing any materials under the deck for removing moisture, you should perform some prep work on the ground. Work the dirt under the deck to create a grade away from the home. A grade of at least six inches for every 10 feet works well. Do not leave a gap between the dirt and the home’s foundation where water could pool. Once you or a contractor regrades the dirt under the deck, you then can add materials over the top.

Yes. Freestanding or floating decks are exactly what the name implies—structures with their own support beams. You can build a deck yourself and place it next to a house for the illusion of a connected deck without the hassle. Or you can construct it in a separate part of your yard for a dedicated outdoor entertainment space. For the purpose of removing a freestanding deck, the steps are the same as an attached deck, but you don’t have to cut the deck away from the home.

The life expectancy of deck boards varies widely based on the material, climate, and maintenance. Untreated wood boards typically last 10 to 30 years with proper care, while pressure-treated boards can last up to 50 years. Hardwoods generally outlast softwoods. Composite boards also tend to last longer than natural wood. Environmental factors like arid or humid climates can shorten a deck's lifespan. To extend the life of wood decking, it's important to consistently clean and seal it to protect against moisture, UV light, and insects.

When installing deck boards, screws are generally a better option than nails. Screws offer superior holding strength over time, keeping the boards securely in place. In contrast, nails are more likely to pop out, which can create a tripping hazard. While you can use either, we recommend using 3-inch galvanized deck screws. To minimize the risk of cracking the wood, it's a good practice to drill small pilot holes before driving the screws into the deck joists.