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If you notice water leaking down the side of the bowl or tank and you don’t notice any cracks in the porcelain, the odds are that it’s condensation. If you notice water around the base of the toilet, this points to a leak. Check for loose bolts. A sewage odor may also indicate a broken toilet flange.

When working on your bathroom floor tiling, you should always tile the floor first and then refit the toilet afterward. This has both practical and visual advantages—the tile will have a better seal, and the installation will look cleaner.

On the other hand, when you try to cut the tiles to fit around the toilet, you’re putting yourself at a disadvantage. It’s a lot more work, it’s hard to be precise, and mistakes or miscalculations can lead to future moisture damage to the tiling, grout, and subfloor.

The order of your bathroom renovation should prevent damage to the completed work. Start with demolition and removing the old fixtures. Then, address structural repairs or water damage, if needed. Next, tackle the rough-in phase for plumbing and electrical work, install waterproofing, and work on wall treatments like tile or paint. Install your shower or bathtub, toilet, vanity, and sink. Flooring goes in after major fixtures but before the toilet. Lastly, install new lighting fixtures, mirrors, and other finishing touches as desired.

Snaking a toilet is similar to clearing sinks and bathtubs, but there are unique circumstances where you’d have to drain, disassemble, and remove the toilet to fix the clog. For stubborn clogs in the toilet trap, a toilet auger—designed with a shorter cable and a protective plastic encasing—can navigate the tight bends and clear the clog without risking damage to the porcelain.