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If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

When it comes to fiberglass insulation versus foam board, there are a few notable differences, both aesthetically and functionally. Fiberglass insulation is soft and flexible, meaning it can be squeezed into tight spaces more easily than foam board. Fiberglass insulation also has a higher R-value, making it a better pick for colder climates. However, foam board insulation can resist moisture and pest damage much better than fiberglass.

We do not recommend fiberglass insulation for soundproofing purposes, especially if you are working on a room that’s part of your living space. Fiberglass insulation is dangerous, and the installation process is hazardous. It is also harmful to the environment. When there are so many newer, healthier non-fiberglass alternatives in the market, the lower cost of fiberglass insulation simply doesn’t justify the harm and danger it poses.

Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.